Lake Tanganyika Resort
Leaving the captivating Kapishya Hot Springs behind, we eagerly set our course for Mpulungu, nestled on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. The journey began with a 60-kilometer drive along the dirt track back to the M1, a route that unexpectedly saw my trusty 8mm spanner change hands with some locals in need of assistance. Little did I know that I'd soon find myself in need of it for a different purpose a repair to a broken Jack on the trailer.
Upon our arrival at Lake Tanganyika Resort Campsite, our initial excitement waned slightly as the "campsite" appeared rockier and less inviting than described. However, we quickly improvised and decided to park our trailers right on the banks of the lake. What initially seemed like a disappointment turned into an incredible camping experience, with breathtaking views of the lake and interactions with the local fishermen as they embarked on their fishing expeditions or returned from their night-time chores.
Every evening, we were treated to the mesmerizing sight of fishing boats setting out, their lights creating a serene spectacle across the water. We could even hear the fishermen's conversations carried over the gentle lapping of the lake, and the nights were illuminated by a magnificent full moon.
Dining at the campsite's restaurant, we had the opportunity to savour a local delicacy known as the "Englishman" fish. This white fish was expertly prepared on a traditional Zambian "braai," which featured an old truck rim perched on a stand fuelled by locally produced charcoal. After days of primarily meat-based meals, the fish was a delightful change of pace.
The following day, we embarked on an adventure to the town of Mpulungu and its bustling local market. The market was a vibrant and friendly hub, offering an array of fresh fish, smoked and dried bream, and Capenta. We found an array of goods, and one entrepreneurial spirit had even set up freezers for hire, providing local fishermen with a space to store their catch. Fresh fruits and vegetables were in abundance, and the shopkeepers added a unique touch by announcing prices over loudspeakers—an experience of the Local Zambian markets on the Banks of Lake Tanganyika which seems to be its own enclave in Zambia.
Our quest for refreshment led us to a small lakeside restaurant called the Lakeside Restaurant, where we savoured cold Mosi beers and enjoyed freshly cooked potato chips with a new perspective of the lake.
As we continued our exploration of Mpulungu, we stumbled upon an old, derelict church built in 1896 by James Swan of the London Missionary Society. This church was more than just an architectural relic; its 15-meter tower had once been a prominent landmark for ships navigating the Port of Mpulungu. Abandoned in 1908 due to the prevalence of sleeping sickness, the church stood as a testament to the remarkable building techniques of its era—a fascinating discovery for a civil engineer like myself.
Mpulungu, with its rich history, vibrant markets, and stunning lakeside views, left an indelible mark on our journey, making it a destination that we would forever cherish in our travel tales.
