03 Sep
03Sep

After our detour from Mvuu and Lower Zambezi back to Lusaka, we decided to stay overnight at Pioneer Camp before embarking on our journey to South Luangwa. Pioneer Camp, although adequate, was quite busy with a church choir serenading us until the late hours of the night. 

The next morning, we set off for Chipata, with our ultimate destination being Mama Rula's campsite. The road from Lusaka to Luangwa Bridge was by far the worst we had encountered on our trip. Potholes and practically non-existent roads made the journey treacherous. Trucks and buses shared the road and drove so dangerously that we had to always stay completely alert. Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we reached Luangwa Bridge Market and crossed the bridge over the Luangwa River. It had taken us three and a half hours to cover just 167 kilometres. 

The road from Luangwa Bridge to Chipata and Mama Rula's campsite, although busy, was a pleasant surprise as it was in good condition, and we made good progress. We were relieved to arrive and set up camp for our overnight stay. The ablutions were decent, complete with hot water, and relatively clean. There was even a pub where we could grab some basic food. 

The next morning, we continued our journey to Mfuwe and Croc Valley Camp Site and Resort. While potholes still plagued the road, there were signs that some repairs were underway. Arriving in Mfuwe, we made our way to Croc Valley, which was conveniently located just outside South Luangwa National Park. 

We decided to camp alongside the Luangwa River, under a majestic Acacia tree that periodically dropped pods, a treat that the local elephant population seemed to thoroughly enjoy. Our campsite became a daily gathering spot for these gracious giants, and it was astounding how quiet they were despite their immense size. We had to be cautious when entering and leaving our campers, but it was truly a privilege to share this beautiful spot with such magnificent creatures. 

On the downside, Croc Valley appeared somewhat run down, and the ablutions left much to be desired. However, they did have hot water, which was a relief after a day of dusty travel. The monkeys are a pest, and you need to be on guard 24/7. Despite the campsite's shortcomings, the breathtaking natural surroundings and the peaceful presence of the elephants made our stay an unforgettable experience.

Acacia pods known here as Ellie Biscuits.

So happy to buy fresh produce grown by this entrepreneur Thomas Phiri.

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